First Impressions: Kempinski Hotel Cancún with Tim Johnson

Seen from the beach, the hotel looks like a dream, a vision rising above the palms and fine, white sand. Grand, and yet welcoming. Enchanting, as it brings together two worlds. Not just a place to spend an average vacation, but a spot to savour elegance and style.

Kempinski Hotel Cancún sits on powdery white sands, facing the Caribbean Sea. 

THE ARRIVAL

Inside, the opulence continues. Italian marble. An entire courtyard hung with greenery like telephone cords – telefonos. Hand-painted frescoes dating back three decades – beautiful works that the original artist still visits every year, just to touch them up.

Built to be a pink palace by the Caribbean Sea, it seems very appropriate that this 363-room, five-star hotel has become Kempinski’s first in North America. The brand has a long legacy of placing guests in some of the world’s grandest buildings. And now one of Cancún’s finest buildings has joined the family.

THE LADY IN RED

During a recent stay, it didn’t take me long to encounter another of Kempinski’s great traditions. Resplendent in a flowing dress, Lady in Red Danitza Mendoza Fernandez tells me her new job thrust her from an important behind-the-scenes role, right into the spotlight. “I was the phone operator,” she says. “If you dialled zero, I was there.”

She’s taken to the part in spectacular fashion. As we chat in the lobby, guests smile and wave, thanking her for some thoughtful extra touch she provided. Danitza learned quickly in her new role, and will never forget the night of the grand opening, when she entered the ballroom in her iconic red dress.

Danitza loves integrating local elements, from recommendations to amenities. “Yes, Kempinski is European, but this is still Mexico,” she smiles. “People come back and say, ‘That’s just what I needed.’”

THE ATMOSPHERE

I encounter this mix of tropical and classic over and over again. I savour the fish tacos at The Caribe Bar and Grill, set right on the hotel’s 350 metres of beachfront. And stroll through a lobby lined with the owner’s private art collection, which includes both grand oil paintings and furniture built for royals, from Mexico City’s Chapultepec Castle. 

And more: I walk down a hushed hallway, only to turn the corner and have the Caribbean splash into view, so vibrant and blue that it stretches the imagination. That same seafront panorama is always present when you sink into the hotel’s cushy deck chairs, too, a place where I spend plenty of time, relaxing around the property’s two huge pools.

Ready to start planning your own dream getaway to Cancún?  

One night, I settle in for a classy cocktail at D-Lounge, while a jazzy band – grand piano, bass – sings Latin songs. On another, I enjoy a fresh seafood dinner – the catch of the day, prepared “Tikin Xic” in an earthen oven – at upscale Casitas, right on the beach. Just steps away, during the season, the staff maintain 200 baby turtle nests, which will return here to lay their own eggs.

THE FOOD

In many ways, the food brings it all together, this European charm and Mexican authenticity. Chef Sergio Picasso meets me at El Café Mexicano, which serves local cuisine. I’m ready to get my hands messy, making a little guacamole.

He cuts open the avocado, which I taste – it’s mild and creamy. A waiter swings by and drops off a margarita, on the rocks. “Any family gathering in Mexico will include guacamole,” the chef explains. “Sundays, with friends, and some beers.”

We mix together the simple recipe, his own variation, which includes pico de gallo. In addition to the avo, he chops and mixes in tomato, onion and coriander. “The best part – everything here is fresh,” he says.

Chef Sergio squeezes in a lime and, turning to me, his eyes narrow. “Now you have a choice: chilli, or no chilli.” At first I make a poor decision, opting for a spicy red, but on the chef’s advice, I change to a laid-back green chilli. Together with house-made tortilla chips, it’s just so delicious.

THE PLACE

The lesson is done, but I linger. Part of it is the guacamole – it’s so delicious, I just can’t stop eating. But it’s also the conversation, chatting about Chef Sergio’s culinary journey. As he tells me when we start to wrap things up: “Food is family, food is home.”

I couldn’t agree more. And perhaps that’s why I love this place so much. 

I think about it as I make my way through the lobby, past the art collection, and out to that picture-perfect beach. It’s a palace, yes. But between the food, the warm welcome of the Lady in Red, and everything else, it feels like a home away from home, fit for a king. One I’ll be happy to return to, again and again.

Golden hour at Kempinski Hotel Cancún.

If you liked this, why not read Tim’s guide to the best places for golf trips around the world?